Jason Lunn.com/ Surfing and life in Indonesia

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Sunday, October 11, 2009

Swell still pumping…

5  Star swell according to www.magicseaweed .com approx 8.5ft at 16 second period for the next 3 days. I surfed Canggu, Tugu beach the other day a bit fat but and best suited to a longboard, also super crowded with beginners (including myself) the occasional long left and odd right, then Ku De ta in the afternoon at low tide.

Low Tide in Bali,.. places to surf,

so far from my experience this year when the dry season trade winds are in full effect Dreamlands (Pecatu Indah Resort) works great on an 8ft+ swell from a 0.1 to a 0.9m tide. Ku de ta also works good but gets blown out with the trade winds coming in cross shore so low tide and no wind is a good one there. Also it is a sand bottom beach break so good for learning on. I prefer Dreamlands anyday though.

Surfed Dreamlands this morning super clean and about 6ft to 8ft on the sets only about 5-10 guys out great fun. Lefts running fast then closing out, the rights were a bit more manageable. Definitely got worked and smashed around like a human washing machine by a few of the large clean up sets.  Then surfed Uluwatu in the afternoon on the Bombie. Not so much fun took 2 very large waves in about 3 hrs of paddling against a horrendous rip current, sore shoulders now.

posted by jason lunn at 3:55 am  

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