Uluwatu, biggest swell of the year so far..

3 days ago and we had the biggest swell of year so far in Bali, I really wanted to try and surf some big waves and Uluwatu Bombie at high tide was heaving big sets in all morning, there were only 5 people out so I thought, might as well have a go, first time Uluwatu is not crowded. The swell measured at 13.5ft with a 16 second swell period, this day was by far the biggest waves that I have ever been in, It took me about an hour to paddle out to the back sets that were breaking biggest and about an half an hour working out what to do and also what was I doing there. I then decided to paddle for a few and caught one safely which by todays standards was a smallish one (The one in the photos below) Then I decided to try catch a second much bigger hollower set wave but I could not paddle into it quick enough as I was on a small 6’3 board and as a result was lip launched about 15ft top to bottom and took the biggest most violent beating of my life in the washing machine of heavy white water. When I finally surfaced my board had snapped and I was left with only half a board still attached to my leg rope and ankle,. it was a very long and treacherous  swim back in,  I also missed the entrance cave however….glad to be alive,..I really felt like I  could easily die in such conditions,..

Jason Lunn Outside Bombie Uluwatu

Outside Bombie the biggest wave I have surfed so far,..