Jason Lunn.com/ Portfolio of a life…..

I have been in Bali for about a week now and have bee surfing Kuta Reefs which are a small boat ride outside Kuta town and situated by the airport runway. Waves haven’t been so great the swell direction hasn’t been right and the wind has been blowing cross shore. However its pretty cool sitting in the sea watching the international planes take off and land over your head as you surf until sunset. The sea is getting colder now and I might have to get a thin neoprene top as I am feeling it. Its winter time here now and I can only spend about two hrs in the sea in shorts instead of 4 in one surf session, that is winter in Bali, a slight nip in the air

Jason and Skateboarding..

I really miss skateboarding on large ramps, compared to surfing it is a much more productive use of time. You don’t have to sit there and wait for the ramp to come rolling in accross the horizon and then scrabble with 10 other surfers to try and get on it.. The sea is soo crowded now and getting a wave that peels and gives a long decent ride is getting harder everyday. Skateboarding you just drop in and go and skate as hard and as often as you like, the ramp stays the same and you can skate until you cannot walk. Surfing is all about weather variables, swell conditions, height, swell period, direction, type of swell, wind swell, groundswell, then you have wind direction wind speed on shore cross shore off shore, AGHHHHH!!!!. Sometimes it is just a nightmare to get it all right and because of the internet if it is all going to line up nicely everyone knows and the sea is full of surfers all fighting for those perfect waves. This makes learning to surf so much more difficult and this also makes the sensation from scoring a great ride on a good wave that much more valuable.. However if my knees would still allow it I would rather blast an 8ft backside across the whole width of a vert ramp any day of the week… This I know for sure. My Knee X rays below are the reason I decided to learn to surf, my cartiledge has been completely removed on the right side of my knee, leading edge of my leading knee on my skateboard. This means I can no longer skate pain free. A unicondular knee replacement pictured right is the solution but I need to be 55 to be eligible so no more vert skateboarding..