Dec 25th 2008
No blog for last 3 days as waves are picking up and sun is shining!
Ok this is going to get boring I am sure, basically the sun is scorching and I have turned dark brown and am surfing between 3 and 6hrs a day until sunset. every day I am sat in the sea 28 degrees in shorts watching the sun going down in a whole array of warm orange, pink, yellow and purple tones, the waves rolling in and basically feeling the most content I have felt at any point in my life. No newspapers so no bad news! no television so no junk thoughts no propoganda or corporate brainwashing, polluting my stream of consciousness. Food is good and affordable my accomodation is great, I have been meeting really interesting and friendly people, surfing every day on small waves but now each day for the last week the waves have been getting progressively bigger and I am becoming slowly more competent and confident, catching some of the big walls that just rise up out of the ocean across the horizon.
Life is good, I want to live here
